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Lille: Rich in history

February 27, 2025

Lille: Rich in history

Many years later, while wandering through Western Europe with my wife, I returned to Lille. Just for one day. A superficial glance, but thanks to that, I remembered the places I had passed through during my time in Lille. And learn more.

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Lille, a vibrant city in northern France, is famous for its rich history, stunning Flemish architecture, bustling markets, and the annual Braderie de Lille, one of Europe’s largest flea markets.

The metro runs five stops before reaching the station where I get off. In essence, you have to go up, exit a metro gate, take a few more steps to reach a square – Grand’Place, then go to another square – Place de la République, and continue walking about 300 meters to reach my school. It takes about 30 minutes in total.

There is another name for Grand’Place: Place Général de Gaulle, named after the French president from 1958 to 1969, who was also the leader of the successful French resistance against the Nazis, as he was born in Lille. A few residents of downtown Lille—around 250,000 people—often come here to have fun or shop, as the square is located right in the city center.

Usually, when I leave the métro, I cross Place Général de Gaulle, then walk through the La Voix du Nord building. Then I cross a Republic Square, where there is a large museum displaying an impressive collection of European paintings, from ancient times to the modern era, and continue walking about 300-400 meters to school.

Honestly, I don’t care about what many people consider beautiful at Place Général de Gaulle. The most memorable, for me, is the bookstore named le Furet du Nord, large and tall with six floors.

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Le Furet du Nord, located in the heart of Lille, is one of France’s largest and most beloved bookstores, renowned for its vast collection, rich literary heritage, and vibrant cultural events.

Almost every type of books published in French is sold here. From children’s books to school textbooks; of course, many novels. There are also souvenirs, various types of postcards, and children’s toys at different prices.

Back then – in the 1990s, after leaving class, on my way home, I often stopped by the bookstore, spending hours… browsing – the joy of someone whose pockets weren’t lined with money. The staff at the bookstore were quite pleasant. Unlike some places, they don’t say anything or glare when they see customers enter empty-handed and leave empty-handed. They respect the customers, ready to order books that, after a thorough search, are still not found in the bookstore.

Occasionally, I would stop by a café overlooking the square, sipping a glass of wine – the only almost worthwhile indulgence in that northern French city. In winter, hot wine; in other seasons, regular wine. Just one glass.

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A well-paired glass can elevate a meal, bringing out the flavors of fine cheeses, meats, and gourmet dishes. In moderation, French wine embodies the art of enjoying life—savoring the moment, celebrating tradition, and embracing the elegance of simplicity.

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From Ajaccio to Waterloo Following in Napoleon’s Footsteps It is nearly impossible to escape Napoleon’s presence in Ajaccio France. The power of the Bonaparte family has never faded, and Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte remains an ever-present figure in the capital of the island of Corsica belonging to France. And when one visits Waterloo, not far from Belgium’s capital, Brussels, it is to imagine the final battle of the emperor often regarded as one of France’s greatest. Even at the waiting area of the international airport, a bust of Napoleon greets visitors. The airport, located about five kilometers east of Ajaccio’s port, has been renamed Ajaccio Napoléon Bonaparte, replacing its former name, "Campo dell’Oro." Once inside the city, one quickly notices that Napoleon’s statues and images are everywhere. He can be seen standing alone, alongside a lion, or even with a woman. There are statues of Napoleon on horseback, cast in bronze or carved from marble. At night, his statues glow under the bright beams of spotlights, keeping his legacy illuminated. Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica, is Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace. Situated on the rugged western coast of Corsica, Ajaccio has managed to maintain a balance between its past as a fishing village and its present as an administrative center. This balance has made it a tourist magnet, even before mass tourism became a phenomenon. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, massive cruise ships regularly docked in Ajaccio’s port, bringing in waves of visitors who would flood the city in large numbers. In Ajaccio, we chose to stay in the foreign quarter, renting a spacious Airbnb for two. Since it was in the city center, the price was steep—$100 per night, double the rate of accommodations in the suburbs. According to historical records, the last 30 years of the 19th century and the early decades of the 20th century marked the golden age of this international quarter, as Ajaccio expanded southward. Without taking time to freshen up, still carrying the scent of crowded airports and packed flights, we headed straight out to explore. Wandering through the foreign quarter alone was already worth the trip. This beautiful district is dotted with grand mansions, luxury hotels, and charming villas lining pine tree-shaded streets that stretch all the way to Ajaccio’s port. In the 19th century, many aristocratic European families owned second homes here, which is how the area earned the name "the foreign quarter." Napoleon is ever-present. In the expansive Général-de-Gaulle Square, which opens toward the harbor, a statue of Napoleon stands in Roman attire, flanked by equally grand statues of his brothers. Each figure exudes an air of authority. Yet the most fascinating sight - still tied to Napoleon - is the location that separates the foreign quarter from the rest of the city. It is perched on a hill. While a tram ticket could have taken us there, we opted to save money and embrace the challenge of a leisurely uphill walk, treating it as a bit of exercise.
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