From Grand’Place to Place Général de Gaulle: Lille’s Enduring Spirit of Commerce

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From Grand’Place to Place Général de Gaulle: Lille’s Enduring Spirit of Commerce

February 28, 2025

From Grand’Place to Place Général de Gaulle: Lille’s Enduring Spirit of Commerce

In the past, Place Général de Gaulle was called Grand’Place. It originated in the Middle Ages, mainly for trade – just like when I was in Lille. Surely now or later it will be the same. Covid did not make people stop trading. Especially after the Lille authorities allowed reopening, similar to Ho Chi Minh City.

In the square, there is also the Vieille Bourse – the old Stock Exchange. (You shouldn’t confuse the word “bourse” with a stock exchange). Just by looking, one can immediately tell that this place is related to trade because on the bell tower of the Vieille Bourse is a statue of Mercury, the god of merchants. But in the 1910s, a new Chamber of Commerce – Nouvelle Bourse – was built across the street.

The old Chamber of Commerce is one of the most prestigious monuments in the city, regarded as a witness to Lille’s vibrant economic era in previous centuries. Vieille Bourse was built in 1653 and has been classified as a historical monument since 1921.

The quadrilateral building consists of 24 identical mansions, with a spacious courtyard in the center; it even has a bell tower. When I was in Lille, that courtyard looked like the skylight of some old houses in Hoi An, reserved for used book sellers and flower vendors. that courtyard looks like the skylight of some old houses in Hoi An, reserved for used book sellers and flower vendors. And on the inner walls of the mansions, one can see statues of French scholars with notes underneath (otherwise, no one would know who is who).

You can also see people playing chess, strolling; even tourists coming and going or flipping through old books, chatting with the bookseller. The courtyard is like a gentle note, floating away from the time and space of a bustling place.

Directly across from Vieille Bourse is the Grand Garde building, constructed in 1717. This is considered a perfect example of classical architecture. One can recognize on the protruding part of the two pedestals extending beyond the eaves of the house, a sun symbolizing King Louis XIV of France, and on the two ends of the pedestals, one side bears the coat of arms of France and the other, that of Lille.

People walking across a sunny tramway intersection in a historic European city. — Lille’s city center is a captivating blend of historic charm and modern vibrancy, where grand Flemish architecture, bustling squares, and lively cafés reflect the city’s rich trading heritage and dynamic spirit.

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From Ajaccio to Waterloo Following in Napoleon’s Footsteps It is nearly impossible to escape Napoleon’s presence in Ajaccio France. The power of the Bonaparte family has never faded, and Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte remains an ever-present figure in the capital of the island of Corsica belonging to France. And when one visits Waterloo, not far from Belgium’s capital, Brussels, it is to imagine the final battle of the emperor often regarded as one of France’s greatest. Even at the waiting area of the international airport, a bust of Napoleon greets visitors. The airport, located about five kilometers east of Ajaccio’s port, has been renamed Ajaccio Napoléon Bonaparte, replacing its former name, "Campo dell’Oro." Once inside the city, one quickly notices that Napoleon’s statues and images are everywhere. He can be seen standing alone, alongside a lion, or even with a woman. There are statues of Napoleon on horseback, cast in bronze or carved from marble. At night, his statues glow under the bright beams of spotlights, keeping his legacy illuminated. Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica, is Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace. Situated on the rugged western coast of Corsica, Ajaccio has managed to maintain a balance between its past as a fishing village and its present as an administrative center. This balance has made it a tourist magnet, even before mass tourism became a phenomenon. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, massive cruise ships regularly docked in Ajaccio’s port, bringing in waves of visitors who would flood the city in large numbers. In Ajaccio, we chose to stay in the foreign quarter, renting a spacious Airbnb for two. Since it was in the city center, the price was steep—$100 per night, double the rate of accommodations in the suburbs. According to historical records, the last 30 years of the 19th century and the early decades of the 20th century marked the golden age of this international quarter, as Ajaccio expanded southward. Without taking time to freshen up, still carrying the scent of crowded airports and packed flights, we headed straight out to explore. Wandering through the foreign quarter alone was already worth the trip. This beautiful district is dotted with grand mansions, luxury hotels, and charming villas lining pine tree-shaded streets that stretch all the way to Ajaccio’s port. In the 19th century, many aristocratic European families owned second homes here, which is how the area earned the name "the foreign quarter." Napoleon is ever-present. In the expansive Général-de-Gaulle Square, which opens toward the harbor, a statue of Napoleon stands in Roman attire, flanked by equally grand statues of his brothers. Each figure exudes an air of authority. Yet the most fascinating sight - still tied to Napoleon - is the location that separates the foreign quarter from the rest of the city. It is perched on a hill. While a tram ticket could have taken us there, we opted to save money and embrace the challenge of a leisurely uphill walk, treating it as a bit of exercise.

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